Handmade clock cases make wonderful gifts and are even popular items at arts and crafts fairs! The beautiful cases inside Wooden Clocks each fit some type of clock insert usually a self-contained clock and will transform any average timepiece into an heirloom to be enjoyed for generations!
There are no reviews yet. Be the first one to write a review. Additional Collections. By the s, the term scroll saw was in common use throughout America and manufacturers, such as Barnes, New Rogers, Star, Lester, and Hobbies, began mass-producing them. New updated edition covers the latest innovations in scroll saw models and brands.
Fool your friends with these intriguing baskets! Featuring twelve never-before-published projects and step-by-step instructions. No special tools required! I usually use Baltic Birch plywood for my ornaments, but they look great in any wood variety. The free pattern for the ornament stand is also included in this group. I have also Included a wonderful set of musical instrument Christmas ornament patterns that can be stack-cut for more productivity. This collection of 28 free scroll saw Christmas ornament patterns are perfect for jump-starting your creativity this holiday season.
Hand-made Christmas ornaments also make nice gift ideas for family and friends. Get your free scroll saw Christmas patterns by clicking the link below. Finishing woodcraft projects is often one of the most time-consuming and least thought about processes.
However, a good finish is what really makes your hard work shine and gives a strong sense of accomplishment and satisfaction in a job well done. Motorcylce Clock designs reminiscent of "Fat Boy" styling include flaired front fender with bullet hole disc detail inco Indian Wall Clock Project Pattern.
Drawing Room Clock Pattern. Create these attractive clocks by adding different fills. You can change the look of your clocks to accent any room.
Legends Cycle Clock Project Pattern. Requires Clock Movem Firefighter Clock Project Pattern. Requires Clock M You can change the look of your clock to accent any room. Oriental Timepiece Clock Project Pattern. Nautical Weather Station Project Pattern.
The Royal Timepiece Project Pattern. This beautiful royal timepiece is an intermediate level fret piece that will snap together once complete. Charming pendulum clock with a "Mountain scene" theme.
Elegant Dial, Clock Movement and Pendulum available below This beautiful wall display will strike up a conversation every time. Great for the home or office. Hummingbird Weather Station Project Pattern. Display complete atmospheric conditions with this great looking Hummingbird plaque. Create this handsome "Tall Clock" to display on your desk or mantle. Pre-printed dial face included with the pattern.
The door is hinged in two places with a pair of fin. Inside the coach are two cross pieces forming seats, and it will be noted that the actual side drops below the floor some distance see Fig. There are numerous additional pieces to add to form seats, footboard, lamps, etc. A back seat is fitted up on brass wire and a detail of this is given at Fig.
In the same detail one is shown how to make up the coachman's and the roof seats. The uppermost one—on the roof—is built up this quite clearly. This detail is also quite helpful in general construction and should be watched through at different points.
Where the cross pieces project they need not be chamfered until the whole carcase is together, then they can be cut off with a plane or chisel. The whole outer surface of the coach so far as the cross pieces are concerned is flush. All this work can be done temporarily, but before the sides are actually put on they should be built up with their overlays.
Glue them securely together, then to the roof of the coach flush with the front edge. A back is fitted by means of the brass wire, as shown in Fig. Just below and in front of this is the driver's seat raised a little higher than the one beside him see Fig. Cushions and Footboard. These are the widths of the coach only and do not extend to the side overlays.
The top of the coach is wired up with brass wire as can be seen in the detail of the finished model. All this brass wire is easily bent with small pliers. The end of each piece should be filed to a sharp point if it is to be driven into the wood. If, on the other hand it is to be fitted on the outside, then the end is beaten out flat and a tiny hole made to take a small screw or round headed fretnail.
The special wire supplied is quite suitable for the job. Wire Rails. The brass wire is for all these seat fittings, whilst the iron wire of a thicker gauge is to be used on the undercarriage stays as will be shown. Each side of the coach is decorated by two stars, and these are cut from thin wood. They can be glued on now, or perhaps it would be better the top is fitted an overlapping rectangle with shaped edges, and above this in turn is a circular capping piece.
On the underside of the lamp a hole is bored into the fin. Glue it into the underside of the to leave them until the body is painted, then fixed afterwards. The footboard for the coachman is a plain rectangle fitted sloping from the front. The angle of the slope can be seen from Pig. Lamps are hung to each of the front corners, and the bracket is glued on to the angle 1in. The lamp itself is made up of fin. On lamp, then push up one of the little overlay rims shown.
All these parts are shown in Fig. The lamp, of course, is just hung into the bracket fixed to the coach, The steps to the coach are also shown in detail at Fig. Two pieces of wood are connected up by the brass wire, the top ends of which are turned under the side of the coach and there screwed in place. THIS week we have pleasure in adding another of the famous old-time sailing ships to the range which have already appeared in these pages.
Everyone knows of the exploits of Columbus and his discovery of America. Well, this is the type of ship in which he undertook the hazardous and unknown journey across the Atlantic. The " Santa Maria " has gone down in history as much as the name of Columbus himself, and the model shown always proves popular. These models are not usually simple to make because of the various parts which have to be cut and shaped, but with the aid of the pictures herewith, and the full size diagrams on our design sheet this week, the work is quite straightforward.
Tools and Materials. The use of the fretsaw, of course, is essential, as ordinary fretwood is used throughout.
Apart from that, however, the work involved is in shaping the hull, and fixing up the rigging and finally painting the whole model. By following these instructions in conjunction with the patterns, however, and using the special parcel of wood supplied, the matter is all comparatively simple.
Do not, however, be in a hurry with any of the parts. Finish them off carefully, take your time in the shaping, fitting and gluing, then finally add the paint carefully. First of all get the parcel of wood supplied, because here you have all the necessary planed boards, as well as the pulley blocks, the dowel rod for masts, and all the necessary cord for the riggings.
This overcomes the trouble of planing the wood down and cutting it out to the necessary dimensions. But before commencing work, a note or two on the actual boat may be of interest. Interesting Historical Notes. The " Santa Maria " is the famous flagship of the squadron of three vessels led by Christopher Columbus during his famous voyage of He discovered various islands, but unfortunately in the end his ship went ashore on what is now known as Hayti, and was abandoned.
The fact that she was never refloated makes records of her a little difficult to follow, but it is known that she carried one cannon and one boat only, and her officers and crew totalled 38 to 40 persons.
The model we show is a replica as far as possible of the actual boat, although naturally it is impossible to add all the small and minor fittings built on the prototype. Now let us look at the design sheet and commence the work of construction. First of all, get a general idea of how it is built and notice the various dotted lines on the patterns illustrating where adjoining pieces come.
Indeed, it is a good plan to have a second sheet so that when the patterns are used on one, there is still a reference which can be made to the other. The Hull Construction The hull itself is made of a centre upright piece the keel on each side of which are added the deck—halved in fore and aft—and the thick pieces A and B.
Glue these all in position then round them off to a nice shape as can be seen by the pictures. A stern view is given which is helpful also in this respect.
Neither the deck nor the thicker pieces, it will be noted, go to the extreme edge of the upright keel piece. To get the raised stern and fore-deck we add further blocks C, D and E. Two pieces of fin. This piece is in line at the stern with the deck itself, and slopes inwards and downwards as indicated in the pattern of the keel. Stern Deck Above this conies the piece D from 1in. This projects a little beyond the other part, as can be seen on the same pattern and in the further detailed drawing given.
Let us finish this stern deck construction first before going forward. The front projecting portion of part C provides a floor for the quarter-deck, which is a piece lifted above the main deck and projecting beyond part C.
Then to the front of the upper portion D , the front of the poop deck part is cut. This is shown with dotted arched lines on it, and these indicate the doorways and openings which are painted on the complete model.
Now add the poop deck itself on the top of block B, noting that it slopes upwards gradually to the stern, and parallel to the keel portion. The Bow Details. We can now transfer our attention to the fore-end and add the two blocks E. Note how they are shaped according to the section, the front edge being fin. The outer edge is the same shape as the hull. Before going further it is advisable to add the overlays forming the ornamental sides.
Cut out the fretted piece first—the two sides can be cut together—then glue them on to the piece of plywood of the side. Now cut the outline complete, and you have both parts exactly alike.
Notice there is only one gun, and in consequence a hole has to be made in one side only. The completed side is now glued on, bending it carefully round to the shape of the hull.
It stands above the deck on its whole length, and can there be temporarily tacked in place until we are sure we have got the other pieces on the fore-deck correct. In the front end of these sides there are slots which coincide with the slots in the centre keel portion.
These are to take the cross strips which come on the underside of the forecastle deck. Glue these strips in place, the longest at the back, then on the top of them glue the forecastle deck. A detail of this is shown upside down herewith to show exactly how it is constructed. The sides to this deck are plywood pieces glued over the edges of the actual deck, and forming the rail to it. On the extreme front there is the little peak piece which is glued carefully between to take the bowsprit.
Hold this piece off for the time being, because it will be easier to fit in at the same time as the bowsprit itself. Strips and Channel. Returning to the sides, we have to add these tiny upright strips which are glued to the fretted pieces.
They form ribs and two of them are shown as an example on the sheet whilst a detail of them is given herewith. The length of these can be measured from the actual model, and the pieces then glued in place.
The channels which hold the ends of the ladders are fitted to each side projecting outwards from the hull. The sails are fitted to the spars with glue, and the running cord leading to the various points shown in the drawing. A crow's nest is added to the main mast, and this is built from two pieces as shown in the accessories.
How the lantern is made up for the stern is also shown here, as well as a drawing of the finished article painted. The ladders, or shrouds, are fitted to the main mast just under the crow's nest spreading out to eight sets of two pulley blocks which in turn lead down to the channels on the side. A couple of anchors are added, and these lie on the deck, being strung to the hole in the bow at the position shown.
When complete the hull is painted a dull brown, and the deck lined for planking in pencil. The lower portion of the hull is white, whilst the overlay strip on the sides are buff or cream. The mast can be plain varnished, and the stern and fancy decoration on the sides is treated in gold. There are, of course, several flags to add, and the long pennant strips which can be seen in the The shape of these pieces is shown on the sheet, and the small hole is made in each of the points shown to take the cord later.
On the deck there are two steps, F and G. These are cut to the shape shown, and have to have the ends chamfered to allow them to stand on the main deck, and fit close to the front of the quarter-deck and the poop deck. The steps themselves are painted on by lines run across. So far as the masts, sails and rigging are concerned, the drawings herewith show the positions and details of these clearly.
It has been impossible to show full size patterns of the complete sails, but as half of them are given full size, it is easy to duplicate that portion and complete the work. The Sails.
The sails are cut from parchment paper, then bent to the shape shown. The masts must be tapered upwards, and the cross spars towards each end. All these can be cut from paper and suitably painted up. The mainsail and foresail each have the cross painted in red upon them.
This should be done before the sail is bellied out. A Base. The whole model can be stood on a simple base. Round the edges slightly, then add two cross pieces about 4ms. This base should be made in nice fretwood, stained and polished up to complete the job. IN continuation of our Overseas Series of designs we are this week publishing one which will particularly appeal to our readers in New Zealand, and workers in other countries who have friends in the two islands "down under".
The style of the Photo Frame is quite clear in, the picture on this page, and the subject is intended to form a companion to the Australian frame which was issued as Design No. As in the other designs of this series, distinctive features of the country are introduced. In the New Zealand frame herewith, we have a background containing a very distinct outline of the North and South Islands, in which the various counties are marked off. The fretwork holding this chart together is composed of creeping clematis, a flower which ranks as one of the favourites in New Zealand.
Then as an overlay we have the kiwi, which is indeed a feature which could not be introduced into any other country's characteristics. The Quaint Kiwi. The kiwi is peculiar to New Zealand and is indeed peculiar to itself. Its feathers are hair-like in appearance, and it is apparently without wings. It lives on worms and is nocturnal in its habits. Unfortunately, the bird cannot be reared in captivity, and in consequence, is gradually becoming extinct, although now carefully protected.
The overlay feature of this bird in the design stands upon a little projecting ledge, and beneath this in turn is an overlay bearing the words " New Zealand. Further to this, we require just a piece of glass and a hinge, as detailed at the end of this article.
Work In The Back. The shape of the clematis is a six petalled flower, and we must note to keep these almost alike in their complete shape and in their independent parts. The links which hold the various parts of the design together have been kept as small as possible commensurate with sufficient strength to hold the whole together.
If we are using the oval piece cut from this frame as a backing board, remember to make the drill-hole on the cutting line. A Word About Sandpapering. When the work of cutting has been completed, let us straightway clean the part up. Sandpapering is never a pleasant job, but it has to be done. Better, therefore, to do it now than to put the piece on one side until we have some more. If all the parts have to be cleaned up together, we shall surely get tired of the operation, so it is best to clean each part as soon as it is cut.
The work of sandpapering is as essential as that of cutting the designs, and if a fine grade of sandpaper is used to finish off with, the wood will have assumed a semi-glossy appearance which brings out quite clearly the grain of the board.
Marking The Counties. By the way, in cutting out this back, you will note that the counties of the two islands are indicated merely by long narrow lines.
These, of course, can be cut out with the fretsaw in the ordinary way, but as such work will necessarily weaken the complete frame, we would recommend the use of a V tool or knife, so that a groove is made into the wood rather than an actual piece cut out. These recessed lines can be cut deep enough to make the markings quite clear, and we can even, if necessary, make them more distinct with a line of colour satin. There are four overlays which we have to undertake, but none of them has any intricate detail to worry over.
The one with the greatest amount of work is that containing the words "New Zealand. It is a good plan to run a pencil-line along the top of the letters from one end to the other. This will help us to keep the saw in alignment the whole length.
Notice, too, the thick and thin stems of the letters, and see that they are even in each one. That is, if the stem is thick, do not cut it down until it is equal to the thin stem. Neither should we leave the thin stem wide enough to make it look a thick one.
Two Single Parts. The overlay of the bird itself has no real interior fretcutting at all. The peculiar markings of the feathers, the line of the beak, and the opening of the eye can be cut as before with a V tool or knife and when these have been completed the outline can be taken away. There is only a narrow neck of wood through the beak and the legs, so that we must hold the board firmly on the cutting-table and close to the saw blade, using a saw which will cut clean and without pulling.
Finding Positions. The other overlay is a plain elliptical rim, cut so that it fits over the opening in the back evenly all the way round. The three overlays are ready for fitting, but in the case of the one of New Zealand, its position is ruled by the narrow ledge which is fitted below the kiwi itself.
Glue on the bird so that its outline is identical with that in the. Then put the ledge with its rounded edge outwards so that it fits in line with the lower portion of the frame.
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